Seeing Red

 

one of the Temples, across the pond

I’ve heard this many times: Cheng Ho (aka Cheng He), a mariner and diplomat, sailed to Semarang, Central Java, long long time ago. Like seven hundred years ago. (By the way, I wonder how a eunuch aka castrato could be that great man of power!) Along, he cemented another layer of what our ancestors apparently have always had: a great sense of tolerance. Our ancestors loved him. They did and perhaps he did, because he later traveled again to what now is Indonesia several times.

A muslim himself, Cheng Ho reportedly built a house of worship—Chinese style—which later was “baptized” a kelenteng alias a temple for Kong Hu Cu or Confusianism. How cool is that. And people said, you haven’t gone to Semarang if you haven’t gone to this temple. So on that Christmas day, after Christmas sermon at Gereja Blenduk (GPIB Imanuel), I went straight there despite the fact that dark clouds were hanging above the city.

I entered the gates with thanksgiving. It is beautiful indeed. Full of red, a color signifying, among others, wealth and happiness. Here and there more temples are being built. The smell of burning incense filled the air and I instantly remembered of Engkong’s house. He used to burn incense in the morning before going to work. 

And here I stood in the center of the complex, an open space. Before me is a long pond, separating the square with a row of temples. They look charming and I wanted to go across the river, err, pond. How can I go there? I asked someone. Deep river, my home is over Jordan…

If one wants to go there, they have to buy tiket wisata ibadah or ticket for pilgrims.

I approached the nearest temple which bears a sign: remove your footwear when entering. So, I removed my shoes. Then a man in uniform approached me, asking, “What are you up to?”

I wish to see inside, replied I.

“Are you going to say prayers?” he asked.

No.

“Then go!” he barked.

But why? I inquired.

“Don’t ask, don’t argue. Go!” he barked yet even louder.

I was totally confused. I retrieved and went to the next temple. My goodness, I read a sign “Only worshippers may enter” next to “remove your footwear when entering” sign. Oh I got it! So, if you are nonworshipper, you may not enter the temple. Please remain in courtyard.

I am so sure I didn’t see any “only worshippers may enter” sign in the previous temple! I wanted to bark at that unfriendly man, yet I understood, I was only a guest here. And I didn’t want to ruin my day, but then his day! Christmas is all about sharing love and joy, eh? You bet.

I circled the temple complex and admired its beauty and history. And then it rained hard, so hard the water vapor entered the inside building in which I took refuge.

I, like other worshippers, took shelter inside. Of course, I removed my shoes and asked for their permission, “Hi, I am not a worshipper, but could I please come inside until it stops raining?” They welcomed me inside. 

 the temple, on Christmas day

How grateful I was since it rained for three straight hours, mind you! I thought to myself, “This is the beauty of tolerance. Cheng Ho must be proud of it!”