one day i had nasi (steamed rice), sayur nangka (unripe jackfruit with coconut sauce), tempe (soy cake), and kerupuk (chips) for lunch. and for the dessert: cenil and jenang (meals made of rice flour).
then i was so full and hardly move. i wondered why. my, those menu above are consisted mostly of carbs!
my thesisi: Indonesians are carb nations. we love carbs because it is affordable. Most importantly carbs are comfort food. They have the ability to stuff stomach.
Carbs here also make good desserts, especially traditional ones that we call jajanan pasar. My favorites are cenil and jenang with brown sugar sauce (they're sticky and 'bouncy'), tape singkong or fermented cassava, tape ketan hitam or fermented black glutinous rice (the alcohol level is high, tee hee), gethuk or cassava paste rolled on grated coconut, klepon or rice flour coated brown sugar, and dawet or cendol (rice flour cakes in brown sugar and coconut milk sauce). oh, just mentioning the names makes me salivate. i'm hungry.
the good thing is, I can find them most anywhere.
Sem
Jumat, 22 Februari 2008
Rabu, 30 Januari 2008
Gaudi-ful
Whenever I come home for holidays, I think it should be meaningful ones for me. I always feel I am like a tourist. Back then, I took it for granted. I'd never known what I'd got until I missed it. But it was not too late because I still can come home and spend much time there.
One particular hotel that had long attracted me was Hotel Tugu in the center of the regency. It is a place of eclecticism, full of totems, Bhuddas, miniature Sphinx, chunky Moroccan garden lamps, and all fascinating artifacts.
I love one special spot which in my opinion it draws inspirations from Antonio Gaudi's art nouveau. It was special moment just lingering there.
One particular hotel that had long attracted me was Hotel Tugu in the center of the regency. It is a place of eclecticism, full of totems, Bhuddas, miniature Sphinx, chunky Moroccan garden lamps, and all fascinating artifacts.
I love one special spot which in my opinion it draws inspirations from Antonio Gaudi's art nouveau. It was special moment just lingering there.
Jumat, 18 Januari 2008
Batik Shopping (Jogjakarta)
Batik shopping is a serious thing. once, I ended up buying something overpriced and of bad quality. Thanks to the man at Museum Batik, I always check whether it is batik tulis (candle drawn), batik cap (stamped) or cetak (print batik) and the cheapest and the most not recommended is print batik. i ever bought 2 x 1.2 m print batik at Pasar Baru for Rp 75,000 (about USD 8) this is much more expensive than what i get (see 4th batik above) which is cetak.
Having no skill in bargaining, i opt fixed price :) and bazaars and Mirota (Yogyakarta) are my favorite place to shop batik. They give reasonable price for best buys, like batik tulis Madura and vintage batik.
Kamis, 10 Januari 2008
Dieng, here i come!
The name had never entered nor excited my mind. But on listening to Sienni's friendly persuasion, I made the decision that some time in December we would go to Dieng, to which both of us had never been before. As the long weekend approached, Sienni said she could not make it.
thought, i must go. i contacted travelmates and none showed interests. so i decided i would go there by myself. a week prior the date, i could not resist the urge to urge people to join my maiden journey. the thought of traveling alone was unbearable (hey, i need constant companion!)
so, Cika and Fajar said they agreed to go with me just three days before December 21.
i prepared my clothes. i must bring less, i thought, so into my back pack i stuffed:
- 3 t-shirts
- 1 longjohn
- 1 jacket
- 1 knit scarf
- 1 hoodie
- 1 linen scarf
- 2 pairs of socks
- 1 shorts
- lots of undergarments
i also brought essentials: victorinox kit, shampoo, flash light, sandals, liquid soap, deodorant, lipgloss, muscle gel, Voltaire's Candide, and small note. Also camera.
i warned them to pack less. so we showed up bringing only single backpacks.
first, Cika and I headed to Gambir for express train tickets on the day before. there was none. sold out. so was at Senen. Later Fajar told us to go to Rawamangun bus station and after long wait, we decided to buy Lorena tickets, each Rp50,000 (USD4.5) or 3 times cheaper than the train ticket.
since price rhymes with comfort, we nodded understandingly when the AC-ed bus began to show some oddities: dangdut karaoke and magical smell. we hardly sleep for 10 hrs until we arrived at Purwokerto, Bello's hometown, at 5.30.
we continued the journey to Wonosobo on a stuffed non-AC bus. it was fine, only my butt felt numb for sitting 2.5 hrs.
we changed bus to Dieng, chatted with local guide, Pak Hengky ("He looks like a Jakartan movie star," said Fajar) and arrived thee at 12. we chose Dieng Plateau Inn and got the biggest room for only Rp40,000 (extra Rp10,000 expected for extra pillow and blanket). we've got king size bed, only this went with wafer-thin sponge mattress. and luckily, it got electricity
it was sunny outside but the water in the bathroom ice cold! I chose the latter not because I was unwilling to pay extra Rp5,000 for hot water but i remembered russians even dipped into icy lake in winter. it proved to be refreshing as my nerves was given shock therapy :) i felt rejuvenated.
we ate meatballs for lunch ("Mouse-meat meatball," joked Cika).
then we began the historic hike. we went to Candi Site, Indonesia's oldest Hindu temples site. we got past two potato fields (Dieng provides potato stocks for the entire island of Java) and paid Rp6,000 for entering 3 areas.

first we admired the temple complex. most of them are slender and less decorated compared to those 'newer' temples like Prambanan or Candi Kidal. some reliefs still show their original forms while the rest are left for us to imagine.
it was midday but the cloud, if not fog, rested heavy above our heads. we chose to continue walking despite the drizzle. the plateau was beautiful. the vast valley look inviting and as fas the eyes could see, hectares of land were being ploughed into crops producing land. i just hope that some of them reforested.
along the roads we found cinnamon trees in bloom and trumpet trees were also in full bloom, ranging from whitish to orange. elephant grass were towering among them.
while walking we saw in the near distance a cluster of abandoned house. we guessed, it was mushroom nursery (factory?). it is said that mushroom is the region's most valuable crop next to potato of course. but we found out that the factory had long been abandoned and none cultivated mushroom no more. sad eh?
Kawah Sikidang
The drizzle poured and we took refuge at food stalls. somebody from umbrella rental approached us and we were given large umbrella-ella-ella and decided to have a look at the bubbling crater.
from afar we could smell the sulfurous air and it hurt eyes. the ground was white and grey and small clear watered pools exhumed sulfuric smoke.
the crater was situated in the valley, surrounded by hills, so it has beautiful scenery and evoked my memory like deja vu. it was like the final battle ground in The Chronicles of Narnia: The Witch, The Lion and The Wardrobe. Seriously. the hilly scenery was graced with pines and western-looking trees. i was hoping it snowed.
the crater itself is about 3 m in diameter and is boiling, smoking. not far from it, we saw big pipes that belongs to the govt. they use geothermal to generate electricity.

We went down to the Telaga Warna (Colored Lake). It was drizzling but beautiful, perfect for photo shoot :). the lake is situated among thick greenery and is rocky. the rocks form some caves which people believe to be magical, giving special strength to get some 'thrones'. but the caves were closed. it's okay, we enjoyed the surrounding especially where the fog fell heavy on the woods.
There's no life in the Telaga Warna because the water is sulphuric, but at the neighboring lake is surprisingly a lake full of fish. In the raining seasons, youths flocked there to gather fish with their trappings.
The walk was memorable because the trees (mimosas, cinnamons) and the shrubs (hydrangeas, morning glories) were flowering. We hiked to Dieng Theatre to watch the short movie about the mount's namesake. It was old movie that needs some update. But it was nice to see how it looked in the late eighties.
As we went home, we stopped at a warung nearby and shyly tried to sip the notorious drink, , purwaceng. No effects. We fell asleep soon after dinner.
By the way we had dinner at Wisma Pak Jono, next to Dieng Plateau Homestay where we stayed. So delicious that our long waiting worth while. The sup sayur (vegetable soup) was freshly cooked, it tasted so good. I felt like this was mandatory for me to order the local harvest. the cabbage, tomatoes, and green beans were crunchy and the tomatoes were soft and spicy. The best i ever had!
We woke up early in the morning to catch the sunlight but the sky fell heavy on our head. we were not disappointed though. We had so much fun up there. We hiked from one place to another, see every thing, and it all took only 6 hours! Time stopped here. Amazing, eh? :)
The best (suggested) time to hike up there is between March to June because it will be icy cold in August and rainy on November to January.
thought, i must go. i contacted travelmates and none showed interests. so i decided i would go there by myself. a week prior the date, i could not resist the urge to urge people to join my maiden journey. the thought of traveling alone was unbearable (hey, i need constant companion!)
so, Cika and Fajar said they agreed to go with me just three days before December 21.
i prepared my clothes. i must bring less, i thought, so into my back pack i stuffed:
- 3 t-shirts
- 1 longjohn
- 1 jacket
- 1 knit scarf
- 1 hoodie
- 1 linen scarf
- 2 pairs of socks
- 1 shorts
- lots of undergarments
i also brought essentials: victorinox kit, shampoo, flash light, sandals, liquid soap, deodorant, lipgloss, muscle gel, Voltaire's Candide, and small note. Also camera.
i warned them to pack less. so we showed up bringing only single backpacks.
first, Cika and I headed to Gambir for express train tickets on the day before. there was none. sold out. so was at Senen. Later Fajar told us to go to Rawamangun bus station and after long wait, we decided to buy Lorena tickets, each Rp50,000 (USD4.5) or 3 times cheaper than the train ticket.
since price rhymes with comfort, we nodded understandingly when the AC-ed bus began to show some oddities: dangdut karaoke and magical smell. we hardly sleep for 10 hrs until we arrived at Purwokerto, Bello's hometown, at 5.30.
we continued the journey to Wonosobo on a stuffed non-AC bus. it was fine, only my butt felt numb for sitting 2.5 hrs.
we changed bus to Dieng, chatted with local guide, Pak Hengky ("He looks like a Jakartan movie star," said Fajar) and arrived thee at 12. we chose Dieng Plateau Inn and got the biggest room for only Rp40,000 (extra Rp10,000 expected for extra pillow and blanket). we've got king size bed, only this went with wafer-thin sponge mattress. and luckily, it got electricity
it was sunny outside but the water in the bathroom ice cold! I chose the latter not because I was unwilling to pay extra Rp5,000 for hot water but i remembered russians even dipped into icy lake in winter. it proved to be refreshing as my nerves was given shock therapy :) i felt rejuvenated.
we ate meatballs for lunch ("Mouse-meat meatball," joked Cika).
then we began the historic hike. we went to Candi Site, Indonesia's oldest Hindu temples site. we got past two potato fields (Dieng provides potato stocks for the entire island of Java) and paid Rp6,000 for entering 3 areas.

first we admired the temple complex. most of them are slender and less decorated compared to those 'newer' temples like Prambanan or Candi Kidal. some reliefs still show their original forms while the rest are left for us to imagine.
it was midday but the cloud, if not fog, rested heavy above our heads. we chose to continue walking despite the drizzle. the plateau was beautiful. the vast valley look inviting and as fas the eyes could see, hectares of land were being ploughed into crops producing land. i just hope that some of them reforested.
along the roads we found cinnamon trees in bloom and trumpet trees were also in full bloom, ranging from whitish to orange. elephant grass were towering among them.
while walking we saw in the near distance a cluster of abandoned house. we guessed, it was mushroom nursery (factory?). it is said that mushroom is the region's most valuable crop next to potato of course. but we found out that the factory had long been abandoned and none cultivated mushroom no more. sad eh?
Kawah Sikidang
The drizzle poured and we took refuge at food stalls. somebody from umbrella rental approached us and we were given large umbrella-ella-ella and decided to have a look at the bubbling crater.
from afar we could smell the sulfurous air and it hurt eyes. the ground was white and grey and small clear watered pools exhumed sulfuric smoke.
the crater was situated in the valley, surrounded by hills, so it has beautiful scenery and evoked my memory like deja vu. it was like the final battle ground in The Chronicles of Narnia: The Witch, The Lion and The Wardrobe. Seriously. the hilly scenery was graced with pines and western-looking trees. i was hoping it snowed.
the crater itself is about 3 m in diameter and is boiling, smoking. not far from it, we saw big pipes that belongs to the govt. they use geothermal to generate electricity.

We went down to the Telaga Warna (Colored Lake). It was drizzling but beautiful, perfect for photo shoot :). the lake is situated among thick greenery and is rocky. the rocks form some caves which people believe to be magical, giving special strength to get some 'thrones'. but the caves were closed. it's okay, we enjoyed the surrounding especially where the fog fell heavy on the woods.
There's no life in the Telaga Warna because the water is sulphuric, but at the neighboring lake is surprisingly a lake full of fish. In the raining seasons, youths flocked there to gather fish with their trappings.
The walk was memorable because the trees (mimosas, cinnamons) and the shrubs (hydrangeas, morning glories) were flowering. We hiked to Dieng Theatre to watch the short movie about the mount's namesake. It was old movie that needs some update. But it was nice to see how it looked in the late eighties.
As we went home, we stopped at a warung nearby and shyly tried to sip the notorious drink, , purwaceng. No effects. We fell asleep soon after dinner.
By the way we had dinner at Wisma Pak Jono, next to Dieng Plateau Homestay where we stayed. So delicious that our long waiting worth while. The sup sayur (vegetable soup) was freshly cooked, it tasted so good. I felt like this was mandatory for me to order the local harvest. the cabbage, tomatoes, and green beans were crunchy and the tomatoes were soft and spicy. The best i ever had!
We woke up early in the morning to catch the sunlight but the sky fell heavy on our head. we were not disappointed though. We had so much fun up there. We hiked from one place to another, see every thing, and it all took only 6 hours! Time stopped here. Amazing, eh? :)
The best (suggested) time to hike up there is between March to June because it will be icy cold in August and rainy on November to January.
Rabu, 09 Januari 2008
Affandi's Garden Bliss



Last Christmas Cika, Fajar, and I were in Yogyakarta. We woke up in confusion: where to go? So we chose something "culture-y" yet "phenomenal". We went to Museum Affandi in the heart of the city.
Apart from its beauty architecturally, it has beautiful and well groomed garden, complete with blooming tropicals like frangipani, hibiscus, etc.
And there I learnt that Affandi, world famous for his abstract paintings, started his career as expressionist. I was totally eyes when I saw his painting of his mother. It is pastel on paper. it has quality of photograph with tiny details. "young abstracts" should also start their career like he did.
Tumpang!
long long time ago . . .
The last day i went to Tumpang, it was an uncomfortable experience. i was like being bullied by local people. they were interested in me and constantly called me tole (TOE-lay), Javanese for little boy. Somehow, it was like an insult to my haughty ears haha. Stop calling me tole, i yelled. I was 5 or 6 yo.
last May i decided to return there, to my birthplace, Tumpang. i need to reconcile, i thought. (The word tumpang is Indonesian for sleep over or temporarily stay. i stayed there until i was 3.) Straight from Marly's house at Mendit spring, Malang, it is about 30 min on motorbike.
Papi and I stopped at Candi Jago and did some climb on that Bhuddist temple (AD 1268). Although the top part has been scattered down, the base is still solid and the relief is visible, telling Mahabrhata epic.
and then we went to the neighboring Candi Kidal, a slender 8 m tall Hindu temple built to honor a king of Singosari. it is adorned with chronicle of garuda (eagle headed, half man, half god). i just couldn't believe the fact that it was built centuries ago (AD 1182). it's well chiseled and well structured. beautiful.
then we went down to Desa Kidal. It is remote and surrounded by sugarcane fields and some lush greenery. beautiful. some streets remain unpaved and chicken roam freely. You know, Tumpang is well known for producing crunchy apples and sweet native kelengkeng (lychee's cousin).
and then Papi spotted this and that: we rent this house, this is ...'s house etc.
i think i want to go back there some time because none called me tole that afternoon :)
Sem
The last day i went to Tumpang, it was an uncomfortable experience. i was like being bullied by local people. they were interested in me and constantly called me tole (TOE-lay), Javanese for little boy. Somehow, it was like an insult to my haughty ears haha. Stop calling me tole, i yelled. I was 5 or 6 yo.
last May i decided to return there, to my birthplace, Tumpang. i need to reconcile, i thought. (The word tumpang is Indonesian for sleep over or temporarily stay. i stayed there until i was 3.) Straight from Marly's house at Mendit spring, Malang, it is about 30 min on motorbike.
Papi and I stopped at Candi Jago and did some climb on that Bhuddist temple (AD 1268). Although the top part has been scattered down, the base is still solid and the relief is visible, telling Mahabrhata epic.
and then we went to the neighboring Candi Kidal, a slender 8 m tall Hindu temple built to honor a king of Singosari. it is adorned with chronicle of garuda (eagle headed, half man, half god). i just couldn't believe the fact that it was built centuries ago (AD 1182). it's well chiseled and well structured. beautiful.
then we went down to Desa Kidal. It is remote and surrounded by sugarcane fields and some lush greenery. beautiful. some streets remain unpaved and chicken roam freely. You know, Tumpang is well known for producing crunchy apples and sweet native kelengkeng (lychee's cousin).
and then Papi spotted this and that: we rent this house, this is ...'s house etc.
i think i want to go back there some time because none called me tole that afternoon :)
Sem
Pulau Pramuka: Turtle & Soto
farewell to Nellythis is rainy season and i miss Pulau Pramuka (PP). the last time i went there was sunny and warm. i had a vey good time there: swimming, boating, eating, basking, singing, photographing.
my friends and i sailed about 3 hours from Muara Angke pier to PP on that noisy diesel powered boat. we mounted on the top and have the best view and the bluest sky we'd ever seen.
the wave rocked gently and we didn't talk much because the view was so amazing and none of us had ever gone there before.
at 12 we landed on the PP. the surrounding water was clear and schools of fish roamed here and there. and the pink jellyfish added to the beauty.
like many other islands in Thousand Islands (Kepulauan Seribu), PP's beach have been heavily transgressed by the sea water. but it has unwalled, white sand beach on its back side of the island where the abrasion shows no lethal threat.
the island is about half the size of Ragunan Zoo or about 5 ha, .
we stayed at a local house. it was a 5 x 2.5 m upper room with spacey terrace with beach view for only Rp 250,000 or USD 25 for 11 of us.
after securing the shelter, we rent ojek (rent boat) to go islands hopping for the fare of Rp 250,000. we went to uninhabited Pulau Semak Daun and once commercial Pulau Air. we had much fun there, from free diving, photo shoots (we did 2007 calendar), to scavenging garbage in search of cast sandals (Victor and I lost our beloved sandals).
we returned to PP and had lunch, it was soto ayam. this was the spiciest soto (turmeric chicken soup) i'd ever tasted. the coconut milk was thick and the turmeric was so generous with occasional eruption of salt and leek. and the food cost inexpensive even for an island 40 miles far away from mainland Java.
the island itself is one of 10 inhabited islands in the cluster of 108 islands in the Thousand Islands. it has schools, from preschool to high school, cyber cafe, hospital, and football field. so there are plenty activities here.
and the most exciting part is the turtle farewell party. the island houses the best turtle sanctuary in Jakarta. Pak Salim (58) has been collecting turtle eggs around the islands for more than 2 decades. for his initiative and vision, he has been given various awards. he led me to his sanctuary. its garden served as mangrove nursery. the sprouts are kept until they're 3 months old before transfered to the beach. nearby, i saw a caged heaps of sand. it was the site of unhatched eggs. each mound was labeled and dated. then i entered a building with many a blue container in which the turtles live.
i saw many hawksbill turtles (Eretmochelys imbricata). so amazing. the cute reptiles swam here and there and they looked like angels when seen from above. their front feet often rest on the scaly back that they it resembled shoulders. you should see it yourself. really.
when my friends later joined, Pak Slamet said we could release the tukik (hatchlings) to the sea. he arranged them on the beach seawise. in seconds, they turned the direction instinctively and marched into the sea, to the calling of Mother Nature. so beautiful and moving.
i wanna go back there, soon as the rainy season ends.
Sem
my friends and i sailed about 3 hours from Muara Angke pier to PP on that noisy diesel powered boat. we mounted on the top and have the best view and the bluest sky we'd ever seen.
the wave rocked gently and we didn't talk much because the view was so amazing and none of us had ever gone there before.
at 12 we landed on the PP. the surrounding water was clear and schools of fish roamed here and there. and the pink jellyfish added to the beauty.
like many other islands in Thousand Islands (Kepulauan Seribu), PP's beach have been heavily transgressed by the sea water. but it has unwalled, white sand beach on its back side of the island where the abrasion shows no lethal threat.
the island is about half the size of Ragunan Zoo or about 5 ha, .
we stayed at a local house. it was a 5 x 2.5 m upper room with spacey terrace with beach view for only Rp 250,000 or USD 25 for 11 of us.
after securing the shelter, we rent ojek (rent boat) to go islands hopping for the fare of Rp 250,000. we went to uninhabited Pulau Semak Daun and once commercial Pulau Air. we had much fun there, from free diving, photo shoots (we did 2007 calendar), to scavenging garbage in search of cast sandals (Victor and I lost our beloved sandals).
we returned to PP and had lunch, it was soto ayam. this was the spiciest soto (turmeric chicken soup) i'd ever tasted. the coconut milk was thick and the turmeric was so generous with occasional eruption of salt and leek. and the food cost inexpensive even for an island 40 miles far away from mainland Java.
the island itself is one of 10 inhabited islands in the cluster of 108 islands in the Thousand Islands. it has schools, from preschool to high school, cyber cafe, hospital, and football field. so there are plenty activities here.
and the most exciting part is the turtle farewell party. the island houses the best turtle sanctuary in Jakarta. Pak Salim (58) has been collecting turtle eggs around the islands for more than 2 decades. for his initiative and vision, he has been given various awards. he led me to his sanctuary. its garden served as mangrove nursery. the sprouts are kept until they're 3 months old before transfered to the beach. nearby, i saw a caged heaps of sand. it was the site of unhatched eggs. each mound was labeled and dated. then i entered a building with many a blue container in which the turtles live.
i saw many hawksbill turtles (Eretmochelys imbricata). so amazing. the cute reptiles swam here and there and they looked like angels when seen from above. their front feet often rest on the scaly back that they it resembled shoulders. you should see it yourself. really.
when my friends later joined, Pak Slamet said we could release the tukik (hatchlings) to the sea. he arranged them on the beach seawise. in seconds, they turned the direction instinctively and marched into the sea, to the calling of Mother Nature. so beautiful and moving.
i wanna go back there, soon as the rainy season ends.
Sem
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